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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.